Flagship on the move

Spain’s most renowned wine designation of origin displays vitality – not only thanks to new laws but also to the broad range of styles it has to offer. We have put more than 350 wines to the test.

Rioja - Flagship on the move

Searching to crown Rioja region’s TOP 100, a tasting of more than 350 wines was held at the premises of Meininger Verlag – and, once again, with great results.

The atmosphere in the wine-growing region was rather subdued because of high losses due to frosts at the end of April 2017, which had left many winegrowers in the western part of the Rioja Alta as well as in the centre of the Rioja Alavesa in despair. Nevertheless, many producers took part in this most important tasting of the prestigious appellation, many renowned operations amongst them. Despite their limited presence in the export markets, even small bodegas met the challenge of being assessed by a jury of about 20 expert tasters in May this year. As expected, most of the red wine samples came from the vintages 2014 and 2015. There were numerous wines of older vintages as well, ensuring that a representative range of all qualities of the current Rioja offer was presented on the seven tasting tables. Once again, the tasters were impressed by both the wide range of wines on offer and the variety of styles, showing why the DOCa Rioja is one of the most important producers of quality wines in southern Europe.

Although the majority of samples were of the quality levels Crianza and Reserva, there was still a great variety of wine in the tasting. Matured wines with the Gran Reserva seal from as far back as the great vintage of 2001 were sampled; there was even one Reserva from 1994, the vintage of the century. Extraordinary wines could be tasted under the green generic back label that now protects young wines such as Blancos, Rosados or young Tintos, as well as many premium wines – some of which are candidates for the newly designated indication of Viñedos Singulares.

This new terroir designation, completing the consistent model assembled along international role models, brought Rioja back into the limelight of the international wine press. Since the late 1990s, about 600 producers across the entire appellation area are allowed to mention the Zona (district) as well as Municipio (village) on the label. Now they can also apply for the recognition of a physically demarcated vineyard site.

From now on, this geographical delimitation indicated as Viñedo Singular with its precisely defined conditions takes the enormous variety of terroir of the 65,000-hectare appellation on the upper Ebro into consideration.

So far rather unremarked by the specialist press is the admission of quality sparkling wines under the DOCa quality seal. In fact, some historic bodegas have been producing sparkling wines under the famous DOP Cava designation for years, which guarantees some kind of tradition for this product in the area. Time will tell if there is a broad interest. Conditions are quite ambitious: 15 months on the lees for basic qualities, 24 for the Reserva category and 36 months for the top category Gran Añada.

SPEARHEADS

The approval of the Viñedos Singulares site wines must be understood as a mere complementary indication, which adds to the existing categories of the traditional classification that is defined through maturation times. This is all about giving winegrowers and wineries the possibility to use the new model to define the origin of their wines, which is absolutely compatible with the existing classification model. This merging of concepts has, on the one hand, caused resentment with some avant-garde winegrowers but on the other hand guarantees the sector’s continuity, which is vital for the global marketing of a region such as Rioja. Put into practice it will work like this: If a producer meets the requirements for the approval of a wine as a Viñedo Singular, a site wine, he can choose to market it as a generic Rioja with a green back label, or as a wine of one of three traditional quality levels: Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. In addition, the Viñedo Singular indication is included in the guarantee documents (back labels and seals) of these categories, which continue to act as the basis for all regulations and which are reinforced by this additional information. In reality, the majority of producers are likely to choose the Reserva or the generic basic level. Hardly anyone will let themselves be pinned down to the long maturation times of a Gran Reserva with such an emblematic indication.

This interlocking of concepts is likely to be less complicated than first assumed, and already now, less than a year after the ratification of the new terroir regulations, the dust has settled and opponents (just like supporters) are changing their tune to something more conciliatory. Ultimately, it can be assumed that it is actually this willingness to find compatibility that has made consensus between the most significant stakeholders in Spain’s most important quality winegrowing region possible at all.

COMPLEX LAW

A Viñedo Singular can be a single vineyard, an individual parcel, or several, connected parcels. The vineyard has to be at least 35 years old. Yields are limited to 5,000 kg per hectare for red varieties and 6,922 kg per hectare for white varieties.

In the first phase, the size of the area which is registered for approval is unrestricted. In fact, the registration of a whole or very large vineyard site is possible if the uniqueness of the terroir character can be proven. The indivisibility of such a plot is an important factor. A Viñedo Singular can only be registered once, which means that the system does not work like the site models of other famous appellations such as Burgundy. In any case, it is an exciting time for all friends of Rioja, as there are numerous candidates. Amongst the many possible top parcels there are a striking number which are planted with white grapes. There has been no official information or estimation concerning the number of parcels that could be considered; however, the industry talks about at least 200 possible, i.e. clearly demarcated and top-quality, single vineyard sites. Some optimists even talk about 2.5% of the total acreage, which would mean 1,500 hectares at best.

However the basic conditions of this indication are judged, the winegrowers reacted promptly. Just a few months after the call for proposals, 59 producers had already registered 97 single sites. This hints at a great success for the supervisory body and stakeholders, who developed the Viñedos Singulares model in many long meetings.

The new regulation concerning village wines means that they can now be announced on the label in considerably bigger font sizes. This also seems to be a success, as the feedback is positive, according to the local press at least. One hundred and forty-four villages are listed in the body of rules and regulations of the wine authority, 118 of which are situated in La Rioja, 18 in the Basque province of Álava, as well as eight in the Navarra region, which has several thousands of hectares registered as DOCa Rioja acreage.

The wine authority itself in Logroño, the Consejo Regulador, is cautious about commenting on the obviously good acceptance of the new indication. The supervisory body expects a rather slow development in the number of approvals in the next three years. They say it is indeed correct that a high number of applications have been received, and interest is growing. However, many bodegas might not have yet realized how complex and costly the path to the Viñedo Singular status could be. For example, a compulsory report needs to include not only the age of the vineyard, its exact size and exposure, and a summary of qualities produced so far, but also a detailed analysis of the soil.

The producer, however, does not need to own the site, but any lease contract has to cover a period of a decade as a minimum. Ultimately, the authorities insist on continuity. Not every winery will appreciate this aspect of the regulations. Additionally, every single site wine has to be registered as a brand. Which producers will come out first and advance to Viñedo Singular pioneers is still written in the stars.

David Schwarzwälder

Blancos and Rosados 3.50 – 10.00 EUR

91

2017 Chobeo de Peciña (Blanco) Bodegas Hermanos Peciña SL

Classic Viura with some waxy and earthy nuances, white blossoms, nice freshness, appealing creaminess, good length

91

2017 Noralba (Blanco) Bodegas Castillo de Mendoza

Exotic and spicy style; apricot, peach, white blossoms, pepper, phenolic traction, quite complex

90

2016 Nivarius (Blanco), Bodega Nivarius SL

Herbal, blueberry, peppery, nutty and balsamic hints, lots of traction, very balanced, nice acidity and good length

89

2016 Hacienda el Ternero (Blanco) Viñedos del Ternero SL

Very floral Viura style, rose and violets, roasted apple, almonds, good length and balance, mild acidity

89

2014 Ostatu (Blanco), Bodegas Ostatu SL

Delicate, open but still fresh fruit; waxy, herbal and spicy notes, well balanced notes of maturation, great for food pairings

89

2006 Viña Soledad Tête de Cuvée (Blanco) Bodegas Franco Españolas SA

Exciting stage of maturation, seems younger than 2006, bread crust, honey and some dried fruit, appears exciting and and still fresh on the palate

88

2017 El Coto (Blanco), El Coto de Rioja SA

Interesting Rioja-Verdejo, grassy-spicy, grapefruit, harmonious and fresh-fruity

88

2017 Campo Viejo (Rosado) Pernod Ricard Winemakers Spain

Well made Rosado; delicate, ripe berries; good body and acidity structure, nice freshness

88

2016 Gómez Cruzado (Blanco) Bodegas y Viñedos Gómez Cruzado SA

Exciting blend with some Tempranillo Blanco, citrus notes, herbal spiciness, nicely refreshing acidity, pleasant wooden notes

88

2016 Alma Tobía (Blanco), Bodegas Tobia SL Spicy, strong wooden touch, creamy-ripe fruit, medium-bodied with a long finish

Crianzas 4.50 – 20.00 EUR

94

2015 Tuercebotas (Crianza) Bodegas del Medievo SL

Intense mineral character, flintstone, gunpowder, iodine, black berries, Earl Grey tea and licorice, great depth, power, very structured

93

2015 Proelio (Crianza), Bodega Nivarius SL

Very harmonious, red berries, attractively meaty, blue blossoms, bergamot, black tea, well-balanced and lots of traction, with a long finish

92

2015 Beronia (Crianza) Bodegas Beronia SA

Impressive Crianze, delicately smoky and mineral nuances, floral touch, red fruit, subtle cocoa, juicy and full-bodied, invigorating

92

2014 Cosme Palacio (Crianza) Bodegas Palacio SA

Little fruit, rather spicy with coffee, tobacco and toffee; multilayered palate, harmonious and with good length

91

2015 Ijalba (Crianza) Viña Ijalba SA

Concentrated character, pine needles, balsamic fruit, chocolaty; traction with freshness on the palate, good aftertaste

91

2015 Fos (Crianza) , Bodegas Fos SL

Roast aromas, leather, smoke and charcoal, slightly meaty, red fruit, smooth tannins, good finish, a wine for autumn

91

2015 El Pacto (Crianza), Bodega Classica SL

Meaty and smoky, pinewood, intense berry notes, modern on the palate, with traction and powerful tannins

91

2015 Paco Garcia (Crianza) Bodegas Paco Garcia SL

Appears very youthful, aromatic woody notes, black cherries; good intensity, lean, elegant, and with a great finish

90

2015 Castroviejo (Crianza) Bodegas Pastor Diaz SL

Strong wooden touch, American oak with lots of coconut, smokey, tobacco, dark fruit; concentrated, good length and lots of potential

90

2015 Orube (Crianza) Bodega Solar Viejo de Laguardia SL

Blackberry, forest fruit, eucalyptus, distinctive barrique notes, somewhat leathery; complex and rich in extract, chocolate and cassis Treasure cellars: long bottle ageing plays an important role in the appellation

90

2015 Rioja Vega (Crianza), Rioja Vega SA

Modern style, warm and fruit-driven, cloves, distinctly roasted aroma; concentrated, oakdriven finish

90

2015 Viña Olabarri (Crianza), Viña Olabarri SA

Cherry preserve, balsamic notes; delicate, mineral spiciness; elegant, timeless style; nice length

90

2015 AGNVS de Valdelana (Crianza) Bodegas Valdelana SL

Intense red berries, a lot of spiciness (clove, pepper), chocolate and cocoa, noticeable wood but good structure

90

2014 Finca San Martín (Crianza) Torre de Oña SA

Multifaceted bouquet, spice and fruit, delicately oxidative, elegant; tobacco and chocolate on the palate, length and potential

90

2014 Berceo (Crianza) Bodega Luis Gurpegui Muga SA

Very harmonious, multilayered nose with red fruit and earthy, toasty spiciness; tannins present but not mouth-drying, great length

89

2015 Montecillo (Crianza) Bodegas Montecillo SA

Licorice, wax, tar and black tea, concentrated, coconut; ripe tannins, noticable acidity

89

2015 El Coto (Crianza), El Coto de Rioja SA

Matured classic style, fragrant-sweet spiciness and red forest fruit, nice intensity, supple and rich in extracts

89

2015 Viña Pomal (Crianza) Bodegas Bilbaínas SA

Fresh and herbal, peppery, light red fruit; lean with lots of energy, good length, harmonious acidity

89

2015 Dominio de Berzal (Crianza) Dominio de Berzal S. Coop.

Light cherries, intense spice, pepper, lovage, harmonious already now

89

2015 Tarón (Crianza), Bodegas Tarón

A lot of dark fruit, blackberry, cherry, sophisticated use of oak, delicate bouquet; still young on the palate, needs some more time

88

2015 Viña Real (Crianza), CVNE – Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España

Quite open bouquet, slightly developed, preserved fruit, smoky notes, meaty and leathery; becoming accessible now but with future potential

88

2015 Senorío de Villarrica (Crianza) Señorío de Villarrica SL

Attractive, unadourned style; cool spiciness, eucalyptus, smoky, well-inegrated wooden notes

88

2015 Eguren Ugarte (Crianza) Eguren Ugarte

Sweet and warm berry fruit, black olives, some pepper, lean, medium length

88

2014 Ortega Ezquerro (Crianza), Bodegas y Viñedos Ortega Ezquerro SL

Ripe red fruit, rustic, a lot of spice, warm, supple and juicy on the palate

88

2014 Miguel Merino Viñas Jóvenes (Crianza), Bodega Miguel Merino SL

Delicate, fruity style with little spice, easy drinking, supple and well-rounded

88

2014 Magister Bibendi (Crianza) Serrano Arriezu A. y R. S.C.

Pronounced cherry, also vanilla, still delicate; intense on the palate, medium length

Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos 6.50 – 20.00 EUR 4.5

94

2011 Imperial (Gran Reserva), CVNE - Compañía Vinicola del Norte de España

Sheer classic elegance, dark fruit, elderberry, black cherries, dark chocolate, also tobacco, lively tannins, refreshing acidity, timeless

93

2013 Viña Pomal (Reserva) Bodegas Bilbaínas SA

Quiet, more reserved, traditional type; lots of tobacco, leaves, sour cherries, subtly floral, juiciness, solid structure

92

2012 Mirto (Genérico) Bodegas Ramón Bilbao SA

Modern style, black forest fruit, earthy and roast aromas; nice density and length, harmonious and not too heavy

92

2009 Murua (Reserva), Bodegas Murua SA Oriental spiciness (mace, cardamon, allspice, cinnamon), black tea and a lot of wild cherries, some licorice; lots of traction and lively acidity

91

2012 Barón D‘Anglade (Reserva) Bodegas Franco Españolas SA

Very delicate, earthy tobacco spiciness; elegant mineral notes, some wild cherry, juicy-tart and firm

91

2012 Muga (Reserva), Bodegas Muga SA

Rather modern but with traditional, slightly earthy touch; sour cherries und forest berries, rather lean, spicy, pronounced fruit

91

2011 Valenciso (Reserva), Compañia Bodeguera de Valenciso SA

Elegant mix of tradition and modern style, earthy and spicy, dark cherries; delicate chalky mineral character, dense, complex, with a good length

91

2010 Montecillo (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Montecillo SA

Textbook-style classic Rioja, morello cherry, floral touch, earthy, tobacco; lots of potential, rounded and gripping

90

2015 Tobia (Genérico), Bodegas Tobia SL

Shows classic but also modern aspects, vanilla, dark red fruit; mineral and multilayered, good structure and density

90

2015 Pujanza Finca Valdepoleo (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza SLU

Rather delicate in its bouquet and elegant with a lot of dark berries; on the palate; youthful, salty and with great potential

90

2014 Parcela nº5 (Genérico) Bodegas Luis Alegre SA

Vegetal touch, green beans plus red fruit, salty minerality and delicate acidity structure

90

2014 Mazuelo de la Quinta Cruz (Genérico), Bodega Miguel Merino SL

Excitingly unique varietal wine, dark cherry, licorice, slightly leathery, taninns quite smooth already but still with good potential

90

2014 La Senoba (Genérico) Bodega Sendero Royal SL

Modern style, crisp cherry, iodium, smoky and reductive; mineral with traction on the palate, pronounced acidity

90

2013 Castillo de Albai (Reserva) Pagos del Rey, SL

Dark elegant type, dark chocolate, black cherries, delicately floral, very dense, juicy and tart

90

2013 Gonzalo de Berceo (Reserva) Bodegas Berceo SA

Tea and tobacco notes, black cherries, earthy and floral nuances, fine wooden notes; juicy and firm, great tannins

90

2013 Señorio de Cuzcurrita (Genérico) Castillo de Cuzcurrita SL

Not yet completely charming but has great potential, cassis and pepper; youthful with noticable adstringency, storage potential

90

2011 Señorio de Peciña (Reserva) Bodegas Hermanos Peciña SL

Traditional style, black cherries and dark chocolate, some leather; delicately nutty with some oxidation, good complexity

90

2011 Finca Valpiedra (Reserva) Bodega Finca Valpiedra

Beautiful notes of maturation, intense berries, some meaty aromas; well-balanced palate, complex, gripping and long

90

2009 Viña Ardanza (Reserva) La Rioja Alta SA

Delicate notes of maturation, earthy spiciness, licorice, tea and nutty nuances; on the palate lively acidity, tannins still solid

89

2015 CM (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Carlos Moro SL

Spicy, delicate fruit, very harmonious, wild strawberry jam, medium body, still adstringent

89

2014 Castroviejo (Reserva), Pastor Diaz SL

Intense dark forest fruit, also earthy and mineral spiciness, tobacco, pepper, licorice and iodium; lots of traction with great mineral notes, not too opulent

89

2013 Fos (Reserva), Bodegas Fos SL

Nutty-toffee type, intense forest fruit, salty and mineral character, lively acidity, tannin backbone

89

2012 Lealtanza (Reserva) Bodegas Altanza SA

Iodious and earthy spice, elderberry and forest fruit, also licorice, floral; tart and firm on the palate, seems youthful

89

2012 Ortega Ezquerro (Reserva) Bodegas y Viñedos Ortega Ezquerro SL

Opulent style, open berry aromas, coffee, wood nicely integrated, good length

89

2011 Vivanco (Reserva) Bodega Vivanco SL

Delicate, traditional style; earthy-iodious, some leaves, some leather, attractive notes of maturation, lively acidity

89

2011 Hacienda el Ternero (Reserva) Viñedos del Ternero SL

Ethereal spice, pepper, licorice, tea, bellpepper and black cherries; intense traction and lots of potential

89

2009 Loriñon (Reserva) Bodegas Vinicola Real SL

Appears quite young, tobacco, berries and cherries, some vanilla; gripping mouthfeel, young acidity

88

2016 Ijalba (Genérico), Viña Ijalba SA

Dark berries, spicy notes, mint, harmonious with good density and length

88

2016 Paco García (Genérico) Bodegas Paco García SL

Green and vegetal notes, cherry and chocolate, delicate roast aromas, silky-fruity, medium density

88

2015 Pagos de Labarca (Genérico) Sdad. Coop. Lapuebla de Labarca Ltd.

Spicy type, allspice, cinnamon, ripe red berries, juicy, good acidity structure

88

2015 Propiedad (Genérico) Bodegas Palacios Remondo SA

Dark berries, some green-vegetal notes, cocoa, full-bodied, dense body, mouthfilling

88

2014 Beronia Mazuelo (Reserva) Bodegas Beronia SA

Very dark type, elderberry, cocoa, floral, juicy with pronounced acidity, fresh and invigorating

88

2013 Lagunilla (Reserva) Marqués De La Concordia Family Wines

Appears more traditional, earthy, tobacco, leather, cigar box, cranberries, some underbrush, delicately matured, lively acidity

88

2013 Campo Viejo (Reserva) Pernod Ricard Winemakers Spain

Elegant character, black tea, wild cherries, minty-floral, dark aromas; very firm taninns, stable acidity, appears youthful

88

2013 Monte Real (Reserva) Bodegas Riojanas SA

Classic, rather delicate fragrance, tea, some black cherry and elderberry, nice freshness, delicate tannins

88

2012 Marqués de Terán (Reserva) Marqués de Terán SL

International, modern style, notes of berries, lots of spiciness; firm tannins, storage potential also thanks to stable acidity

88

2011 Zinio (Reserva) Bodegas Patrocinio S. Coop. L.

Beginning oxidation but currently exciting and well-balanced, licorice, fruit in rum, plum butter, classically earthy and leathery, smooth tannins

88

2011 Magister Bibendi (Reserva) Serrano Arriezu A. y R. S.C.

Appears very modern, toffee and tanbark notes, peppery with a touch of ham, interesting spiciness, lean and tart

88

2010 Viña Olabarri (Gran Reserva) Viña Olabarri SA

A lot of ripe plum, spicy-earthy and pronouncedly woody; some licorice, shows complexity

88

2007 Manzanos (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Manzanos SL

Black currant, floral spiciness, forest floor, rather elegant, harmonious and with potential

88

2014 Roda (Reserva), Bodegas Roda SA

Dark and floral type, black cherry, some tea, very firm tannins and good acidity More than 350 wines were tasted by the expert jury

Reservas, Gran Reservas and Genéricos more than 20.00 EUR

94

2015 La Loma (Genérico) Bodega Miguel Merino SL

Very fragrant, plum butter, cinnamon, very refreshing, currant, red berries, some coffee; youthful and lively acidity, modern and exciting

94

2010 Prado Enea (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Muga SL

Reserved but greatly elegant, appears extremely young, cinnamon, cedar, blackberries, a lot of lively acidity; ripe, firm tannins; super classic

93

2015 Cerro las Cuevas (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Gómez Cruzado SA

Dark cherry fruit, distinct roast aromas, still quite reserved; delicate earthy and mineral spiciness, traction without being fat, firm, tart finish

93

2001 Montecillo (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Montecillo SA

Nicely matured, balsamic fruit, delicate tobacco notes, ethereal-herbal spice, dried cherries and figs; seems rather lean, very lively with good tannins

92

2013 Gran Albina (Reserva) Bodegas Riojanas SA

Seems rather classic, delicate berry notes, wild strawberries and cassis, some dried herbs, pronounced but well integrated acidity

92

2012 Cosme Palacio (Reserva) Bodegas Palacio SA

Sophisticatedly modern, intense forest fruit, red cabbage, tobacco, pepper, iodium and iron; lots of traction; coarse, present tannins; stable

92

2010 Marqués de Riscal (Gran Reserva) Bodegas de los Herederos del Marqués de Riscal SL

Very classical style, milk chocolate, cigar box and sandalwood, plums, cinnamon, herbaceous, laurel; demanding, vital tannins, fine acidity, great length

92

2009 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta SA

Really delicate, classically earthy fragance; a lot of floral nuances (rose, violets), right stage of maturation to enjoy, rather light body but great elegance

92

2004 200 Monges (Gran Reserva) Bodegas Vinicola Real SLU

Impressive, concentrated bouquet, dark fruit, noticable spice, appears young; opulent but still well-balanced on the palate

92

2001 Conde de los Andes (Genérico) Bodegas Muriel SL

Noticeably matured, very traditional yet exciting, sweet forest berries, floral to vegetal; light, lean and with refreshing acidity, ripe and integrated tannins

92

1994 Evento (Reserva) Castillo de Mendoza SL

Meaty flavours, intense berry notes, black tea, no oxidation, still seems youthful on the palate thanks to its acidity, not too opulent

91

2015 Finca La Emperatriz Parcela nº 1 (Genérico), Hermanos Hernaiz Viñedos y Bodegas SLU

Blueberries, ethereal spice, delicately lactic, smoke and a wooden touch; still a little adstringent but with potential and complexity

91

2011 Faustino Icon (Reserva) Bodegas Faustino SL

Floral to medicinal, exciting spiciness, also eucalyptus, dark chocolate; modern character, coarse tannins, rich in extracts

90

2015 Colección Vivanco Parcelas de Graciano (Genérico), Bodega Vivanco SL

Dark, tart and delicately floral, juniper, blackberry, cocoa; lots of traction, opulent but not over the top, can mature for much longer

90

2015 Alma Tobía (Genérico) Bodegas Tobía SL

Proncounced fruit, roast aromas (coffee, flintstone, chocolate), good structure with density and length

90

2014 Lan A Mano (Genérico) Bodegas Lan SA

Luscious and intense, modern fruitiness; very concentrated, somewhat medicinal, rich in extracts, juicy and opulent but not too much

90

2014 El Puntido (Genérico) Sierra Cantabria SA

Powerful dark fruit, black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate, distinctive new oak; enormous density and length without being plump

90

2014 Polus (Genérico) Bodegas L. Casado SL

Still quite young, pronouncedly leathery, earthy spiciness, sour cherries and pepper, medium length

90

2014 Valserrano Finca Monteviejo (Genérico), Viñedos y Bodegas de la Marquesa SL

Herbal character, a lot of sour cherry, spicy wood and blackberry; very young tannins, juicy, rich in extracts and concentrated

89

2015 Pujanza Norte (Genérico) Bodegas y Viñedos Pujanza SLU

Noticable toffee, not too much fruit, still very youthful, red berries; firm, young tannins

88

2014 Pontac (Genérico) Bodegas Luis Alegre SA

Cinnamon, dark cherries and elderberry, dark chocolate, also pepper, storage potential

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