The dirt on wine

John Szabo MS reports that the evidence on soil is in, and it’s time to start telling consumers.

Photo by Kyle Ellefson on Unsplash
Photo by Kyle Ellefson on Unsplash

“These days, you can’t say hot, cool, wet or dry vintage any longer. Weather has become totally unpredictable, with extremes even within one growing season,” began Diego Tomasi, director of the Centro di Ricerca per la Viticoltura e Enologia di Conegliano (CRA-VIT) in Italy. To emphasise his point, he projected onto a screen several graphs; one showing the increased variability of harvest dates in Burgundy in the past 15 years compared to the previous two centuries. Another charted the extremes of temperature and precipitation, both highs and lows, experienced in northern Italy in a single year, 2017. “Climate is simply too variable,” he said. “Soils are quickly becoming the most significant factor that defines terroir and wine quality.”

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